Sunday, March 18, 2018
Testing an Alltek MPU board
Monday, January 22, 2018
New Drop targets
If I have not said this before I will say it now. The game is real fast. So fast and strong it is breaking all the old plastic parts. First parts to replace are the drop targets. Really did not like the blue blank targets so went with white with yellow Stern S.
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| Old target blue, New targets white with yellow S |
| New targets installed |
Sunday, January 14, 2018
Stern Solenoid Driver Board
Some time on or after 1992 the solenoid driver board was replaced with a Bally driver board. There is evidence of smoke above the location of the driver board. Picked up a real clean Stern SDU-100 Driver Board on ebay for a good price but untested. Did all the ground modes and replaced the two large caps as recommended C23 and C26. Tested all outputs and then did a solenoid test and tested out good.
Saturday, January 13, 2018
Update on LEDs
There is four solutions to the strobing issue on the controlled lamps with LEDs. NOTE: Some info is from users at Pinside.com find more info here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-ballystern-led-adapter-kit-review Thank you, vid1900
1. Remove the LEDs and use florescent lamps #44 as intended. Pros: No mods needed and will have a retro look. Cons: Run hot and draws the most current, also not as bright and can heat up and warp insert plastics.
2. Add a resistor to each lamp socket. Solder a 470 ohm resistor to each controlled lamp socket under the playfield so that the lighting circuits see enough current draw to stay latched on. Pros: Inexpensive ($2.50 for 100 resistors shipped) Cons: May take hours of soldering.
3. Buy 3 small daughter boards that attach to the original lamp driver board. These boards have resistors built in, saving the time of soldering them at each socket. Find boards at:www.siegecraft.us cost around $50.00 for all three. Pros: easy to install, low cost and can be easily removed and reused. Cons: Cost, some soldering and more connections that can go bad and if you remove the board you need to remove the LEDs.
4. Replace the lamp driver board with an alltek "Ultimate LED/Lamp Driver Board" for $120. Pros: This board allows you to use LEDs and gives you an entirely new lamp driver board. If you old board is missing, hacked up, burnt or corroded, this is your best option. Life time warranty too. Find it here:http://www.allteksystems.com/products-mpu-replacements.html#lamp Cons; Cost, some soldering, if you remove the board you will need to remove the LEDs.
I elected to go with option #2. I soldered a reisstor to each controlled lamp socket. Took about 1.5 hours of time. Cost was $1.25 for 50 resistors. I can remove the resistors if I ever want but don't see that ever happening. The LEDs look great and work very well. I really like the look of the LEDs on this game.
1. Remove the LEDs and use florescent lamps #44 as intended. Pros: No mods needed and will have a retro look. Cons: Run hot and draws the most current, also not as bright and can heat up and warp insert plastics.
2. Add a resistor to each lamp socket. Solder a 470 ohm resistor to each controlled lamp socket under the playfield so that the lighting circuits see enough current draw to stay latched on. Pros: Inexpensive ($2.50 for 100 resistors shipped) Cons: May take hours of soldering.
3. Buy 3 small daughter boards that attach to the original lamp driver board. These boards have resistors built in, saving the time of soldering them at each socket. Find boards at:www.siegecraft.us cost around $50.00 for all three. Pros: easy to install, low cost and can be easily removed and reused. Cons: Cost, some soldering and more connections that can go bad and if you remove the board you need to remove the LEDs.
4. Replace the lamp driver board with an alltek "Ultimate LED/Lamp Driver Board" for $120. Pros: This board allows you to use LEDs and gives you an entirely new lamp driver board. If you old board is missing, hacked up, burnt or corroded, this is your best option. Life time warranty too. Find it here:http://www.allteksystems.com/products-mpu-replacements.html#lamp Cons; Cost, some soldering, if you remove the board you will need to remove the LEDs.
I elected to go with option #2. I soldered a reisstor to each controlled lamp socket. Took about 1.5 hours of time. Cost was $1.25 for 50 resistors. I can remove the resistors if I ever want but don't see that ever happening. The LEDs look great and work very well. I really like the look of the LEDs on this game.
Thursday, December 28, 2017
All new lamp sockets and LEDs
Replaced all the Lamp sockets in the playfield. Big job but had to be done. Put LEDs in all new sockets. Game looks awesome but having a strobing problem. In contact with Comet Pinball and should find a solution soon. Here is a video that shows the strobing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=el734R4C5Y0
Here are some pics:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=el734R4C5Y0
Here are some pics:
Tuesday, December 26, 2017
New LEDs and Lamp sockets
Received all new LED's and lamp sockets for Christmas. Not going too crazy with the LED's. Received two types from Comet Pinball, twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS - Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Sunlight White for GI lighting and 1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON-GHOSTING 5050 BULB - Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Warm White for feature lighting. Replaced 10 sockets today and the LED's look awesome. The new sockets from Pinball Resource work great. When I am done with all the sockets, I will post a video of the game working 100%.
Wednesday, December 20, 2017
Update: Mechanics and Lamps
Worked on the mechanics and lamps. Got all the mechanics working. All the flippers and out-holes work great now. Adjusted all the switches, fixing the switches with bad caps and diodes. Worked a lot on the lamps. Got about 80% of the lamps working but the sockets are just junk. Ordered all new lamp sockets, over 100 of them. Also ordered LED's, going to switch them all over, should make the game look great.
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